Salmorejo, a Chilling Summer Soup

Take advantage the bounty of beautiful tomatoes that are at their most juicy deliciousness during summer with salmorejo. Simpler and less ingredients than gazpacho, salmorejo is a chilled soup perfect for warm days and nights including made ahead for Shabbat. It is also one of those recipes that is a great way to use up old bread, like bread salad from Italy and fattoush salad from Lebanon. 

Salmorejo was first created in the 16^th century when conquistadores brought tomato plants and seed to Spain from South America in the 1520s. Using tomatoes quickly took root among Crypto (secret) Jews and Conversos. Fleeing Spain, some of these exiles carried tomato plants and seeds eastward. It took many years for other Europeans to accept the tomato as not being poisonous, even in Italy where tomatoes were derogatorily called the “Jews apple.” It wasn’t until the1560s that tomatoes started showing up in dishes in northern Italy.

The Judios of Spain most often topped their soup with a drizzle of olive oil and chopped or sliced hard-cooked eggs (huevos haminados). Spainish Christians added pieces of ham to the soup, historian Irene Gonzales explained to me during as we walked around her hometown of Toledo, Spain. Adding ham was one of ways food was used to expose Conversos or New Christians as still secretly hanging on to their Judaism during the ongoing Inquisition. 

Salmorejo is usually prepared with a splash of sherry or wine vinegar, I have added my own twist by using instead one of my favorite ingredients, pomegranate molasses, for a more complex sweet tartness. Whichever you use, this soup is a refreshing and tasty addition to your summer menus.

SALMOREJO

Chilled Spanish Tomato Soup

Serves 4

• About 2 1/2-3 pounds ripe tomatoes

• 2 cups white or whole wheat bread without the crust (like most of the soft insides of a baguette)

• 1-2 cloves garlic, grated or pressed

• 1 teaspoon sherry vinegar, red wine vinegar or pomegranate molasses, to taste

• 1/2 teaspoon salt or to taste

• 1/4-1/2 cup good olive oil

• Garnishes: 2-4 chopped or sliced hard-boiled eggs, chopped chives, whole leaf or chopped basil, a drizzle of pomegranate molasses and/or olive oil 

Core, roughly chop and seed the tomatoes. Working in two batches, process half the tomatoes in a blender about 30 seconds to break down. Add half the bread, pushing it fully into the tomatoes to start to soften. After a minute, add half the garlic, vinegar or pomegranate molasses and salt. Process at high speed until very smooth, usually about 1 minute. Keep the blender running as you drizzle in about 2 tablespoons olive oil. When well blended, stop to taste. Adjust the olive oil and salt. Blend again, adding more olive oil with the blender running as desired. The soup should be very smooth. Put the soup into a large bowl or pitcher. Repeat with the remaining ingredients. Cover and refrigerate until the salmorejo is very cold, at least 2 hours.

To serve, divide the soup among 4 wide bowls. Garnish with eggs and other options as desired.